Each piece in Avallore’s collection is hand-woven using techniques that have origins in centuries of armourers, artisans, and ancient civilizations. These chain mail weaves, once forged in battle and ceremony, are reimagined today in gold and stainless steel, and are symbols of resilience, grace, and artistry.

European 4-in-1

The European 4-in-1 weave is the most iconic and historically significant of all chain mail patterns. Originating in Europe in the 3rd century BC, this design became the backbone of medieval armour across the continent. Each ring interlocks with four others, creating a dense, flexible fabric that once shielded knights, crusaders, and soldiers from blades and arrows.

Historical Figures & Events

The Battle of Hastings:
This chain mail weave was depicted on the The Bayeux Tapestry, which chronicles the events leading to the Norman Conquest of England in 1066, particularly the Battle of Hastings. The tapestry notably pictures William the Conqueror wearing a hauberk of European 4-in-1 chain mail. 

The Crusades:
Richard the Lionheart, the iconic warrior-king of England led armies in the Holy Land between 1189–1192, wearing chain mail hauberks and coifs of European 4-in-1. His armour protected him through countless skirmishes, including the Siege of Acre and the Battle of Arsuf against Saladin.

Joan of Arc:
Joan of Arc, the French heroine and military leader wore a full European 4-in-1 hauberk beneath her surcoat while leading troops to victory at Orléans (1429). She along with countless other knights, wore the chain mail weave during the famous The Hundred Years’ War (1337–1453). 

Half-Persian 4-in-1

The Half-Persian 4-in-1 weave is a refined and elegant pattern believed to have originated in the Middle East. Unlike the dense battle-ready European weaves, this design was primarily used for adornment and ceremonial chains. Its interlocking rings create a smooth, fluid texture that drapes gracefully - a perfect balance of symmetry and movement. Though not confirmed to be used for armour, its name and structure are inspired by the intricate metalwork traditions of Persian and Ottoman artisans, whose craftsmanship flourished between the 10th and 16th centuries.

Historical Figures & Events

Persian Nobility and Artisans:
During the height of the Persian Empire and later the Safavid Dynasty (16th century), decorative metalwork was an esteemed art form. Court jewellers and armourers crafted intricate link designs similar to the Half-Persian weave for ornamental jewellery, ceremonial belts, and sword adornments worn by nobles and warriors alike.

Ottoman Empire:
Metal chains resembling the Half-Persian pattern were used in decorative garments, turbans, and weapon embellishments during the reign of Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent (1520–1566). These detailed chains reflected the empire’s wealth and reverence for master metalworkers.

Silk Road Influence:
As trade flourished across the Silk Road, techniques from Persia to Byzantium merged and evolved. Craftsmen exchanged methods for weaving metals, resulting in the spread of interlocking designs that would inspire both Eastern jewellery and European decorative chains centuries later.

Byzantine Weave

The Byzantine weave is one of the most intricate and decorative chain mail patterns, originating in the Eastern Roman Empire around the 5th century CE. Its interlocking clusters create a complex, rope-like design that symbolises sophistication and artistry rather than warfare. The weave became synonymous with status and beauty, adorning the necks and wrists of Byzantine nobility, merchants, and clergy. Its ornate structure represented the grandeur of the empire itself - a marriage of Roman engineering and Eastern ornamentation.

Historical Figures & Events

Emperor Justinian I:
Under Justinian’s reign, Constantinople flourished as a centre of art, architecture, and craftsmanship. Jewellery featuring complex interwoven links adorned members of his court, reflecting imperial wealth and divine favour.

The Byzantine Empire & Venetian Traders:
As Venetian merchants began trading with Constantinople in the 11th–13th centuries, they brought Byzantine jewellery styles back to Europe. These intricate weaves inspired Renaissance goldsmiths and spread throughout Italy, where they became symbols of refinement and prosperity.

Religious & Ceremonial Use:
Many religious icons and relics were encased in decorative chains woven in Byzantine-inspired patterns during the Middle Ages. These sacred adornments were used in churches across the empire, representing spiritual connection and eternal faith through their endless looping links.

2-in-2 Weave

The 2-in-2 weave, often called the “Double Chain,” is one of the oldest and simplest known chain link patterns. Its origins trace back to ancient Celtic, Greek, and Roman metalwork, where it served both practical and ornamental purposes. Each link connects through two others, creating a strong yet supple chain that could be worn as jewellery, used as fastenings, or incorporated into light armour trim. The weave’s timeless simplicity made it a foundation for many later chain designs.

Historical Figures & Events

Ancient Greece and Rome:
Archaeological finds show 2-in-2 style chains used as decorative trim on armour, clothing, and jewellery during the Classical period (5th–1st centuries BCE). Roman soldiers and senators alike wore gold and bronze chains woven in this style, symbolising rank and prestige.

Celtic Tribes of Europe:
Celtic smiths were renowned for their intricate metalwork during the Iron Age (circa 800 BCE–100 CE). The 2-in-2 weave appeared in torcs, pendants, and clasps discovered in burial sites across Britain and Ireland, often crafted from bronze or gold to signify power and nobility.

Pompeii & Roman Empire:
Excavations at Pompeii and Herculaneum have uncovered examples of interlinked metal chains resembling the 2-in-2 pattern — used in household decoration and personal jewellery — providing a glimpse into its everyday elegance before the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 CE.